Seed Propagation
of Succulent Plants
A Seed is a Tiny Plant in a Box with its Lunch
It’s always a gamble growing more succulents for your collection using seed propagation – you never know for sure if you’ll get empty flats and a complete crop failure, or one hundred percent germination rate and be over run with so many succulent plants you can’t possibly use them all. The best case scenario with seed propagation of succulent plants is a fifty percent germination rate, giving you the opportunity to further propagate if necessary by other means – either by cuttings, division or saving seed from the progeny later down the road.
Either way, it’s a long term proposition, and the slowest way to propagate.
So why use seed propagation at all?Tip: Using seed propagation of Sedum and Sempervivum as well as many other rare hardy succulents like Orostachys and Jovibarba can give you lots of stock to use to swap with other collectors. Simply, it’s the most economical way to grow succulents; although it takes the longest eventually you end up with almost free plants. Also, it’s the only way to get new varieties as seed pollinated by other species and varieties always has the potential to provide something new. Thirdly, it’s fun. I tenderly sprinkle the tiny dust like seeds on the surface of carefully prepared flats of soilless mix, mulched with turkey grit to retain the moisture at the soil surface.
I put the clear plastic covers on and wait, eagerly inspecting to see if there are even the tiniest of cotyledons. After a couple of weeks, sometimes less, sure enough, there they are, but so small that a careless application of the watering can will wash them all away. In another week or so the covers can come off during the day, and go back on at night to prevent damage occurring from a mouse or other pest. Tip: Make sure you clearly label your flats; your memory is no match for time, and eventually when your crop finally germinates, the early seed leaves are almost impossible to identify. Eventually, the seedlings have several leaves, and the covers are removed for good to let the tiny plants harden off. Gradually withholding water will help send the tiny roots seeking deeper into the shallow layer of soil in the flat. Sometimes I shade the plastic dome with row cover or shade cloth, if I think it’s too bright and sunny. Even though the adult succulent plants may love hot sun and bright conditions, the seedlings will dry out too quickly. In their natural habitat, the seeds will germinate in the shade of a rock or piece of wood, or in the shelter of the parent plant.
A light feeding of compost tea judiciously watered in with captured rain water will give them the nutrition they need to grow fast and strong. Once they have a clump of true leaves and are big enough to handle, they can be potted up into small pots to grow on. They still require care, but are getting strong enough to be left to their own devices and allowed to dry out a bit between waterings. By early fall, they should be fully rooted into their pots and ready to go outside into the big world. I keep the hardy succulents on top of my vegetable beds after all the produce is harvested, and snow covered and snug, they will easily survive the winter. Tender succulents have to go inside for their winter under fluorescent lights in the cool back room. How do you use all these (almost) free plants that you so lovingly propagated from seed?
Make succulent mirror frames, mosaics or topiaries, plant up your containers, wheelbarrows and baskets for display, or plant a tapestry bed. Luckily, there is no one way to combine all the textures and shapes; they all look good together, and separately so it’s impossible to fail with your design. I have no end of fun coming up with many ways to grow all these fabulous Drought Smart Plants in my garden, and I’m sure you will too.
Wanting to learn more about Succulent Plant Propagation?
go to Drought Smart Plants home page
Succulent Plant Propagation
Vegetative Propagation
Greenhouse
My Sedum and Succulent Nursery
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